INSIDE UKRAINE / в украине

A proposal for an Open Air Museum of Folk Architecture and Customs of the Podolian Region

The Podolian Agency for Regional Development is proposing to develop an Open Air Museum of Folk Architecture and Customs in the Village of Severynivka and I am pleased to prepare drawings for this ambitious project as part of my service with the United States Peace Corps in Ukraine. The Village of Severynivka is unique with respect to its geographic and historical parameters. The village is situated on hillsides with beautiful landscapes and vast panoramic views.

Village history includes significant references to Polish Count Severin Orlovskiy, whose palace still exists, now being used as a specialty hospital. A close by gardener’s cottage and greenhouse, built in 1812, is associated with prolific Irish landscape architect Denis McClair (Dionisiy Makler), who worked on “many miracles of park art” in the Podolian Region. McClair had designed the gardens, now called Severinovske State Park in Severynivka, for Count Orlovskiy.  The Podolian Region’s history includes important folk architecture rich in the traditions of wood construction using techniques significantly different than today’s modern building technologies. It is important to present the Podolian region folk construction customs in the Severynivka setting as a documentation and laboratory of study for all to learn from and pass on to future generations to understand, appreciate and enjoy. While a goal is to preserve this heritage and highlight the region’s unique architecture, the project also seeks to increase tourism and employment for Severynivka residents.

THE CONCEPT PLAN The plan is presented in three phases. The first phase is to be implemented on the east side of the existing water features, encompassing approximately 2.4 hectares. The second phase will transcend the water features by a footbridge, further incorporating additional area into the open air museum territory. The third phase will allow unlimited growth of the territory.

The Concept Plan for the Open Air Museum of Folk Architecture and the Customs of the Podolian Region shows a reconstructred church, the ultimate in Ukrainian wooden architecture and a focal point of public life in the village. Also shown is a traditional windmill, a most ingenious engineering invention, exemplary in its example for today’s energy sustainability. The plan also allows for future incorporation of a water mill along an adjacent stream connecting small lakes. Several small houses are to be included, highlighting a potter’s estate to present this important traditional craft. A two chamber house and a three chamber house will also be presented to allow for a comparison study of village life.

Severynivka has a wonderfully rich foundation involving presentations of folk and traditional crafts. The development of the Open Air Museum of Folk Architecture and Customs of the Podolian Region will enhance these presentations of folk culture displayed through festivals and classes of traditional crafts. Through the Museum and, with the enthusiastic involvement of its citizens, Severynivka will enhance its leadership role in the documentation and presentation of the important history of the Podolian Region.

Dr. Nickolay Pirogov was a well known Russian scientist, surgeon and educator whose estate, called Vyshnya (“cherry tree”) in Vinnytsya is a beautiful park covering 16 hectares (39.5 acres). Dr. Pirogov lived from 1810 to 1881 and, besides being a Russian hero, is considered the founder of modern medical practice. To encourage his interest in the medical field, at age 13 his parents purchased a falsified birth certificate which allowed him to enter the university in Moscow. At age 17 he graduated among the top ten students in the medical school and obtained his doctorate degree at age 21. At the museum    at Vyshnya you can see his doctoral dissertation on heart surgery, written in Latin. Also on display are his amazing (and beautiful) anatomical drawings.

During the Crimean War, Dr. Pirogov introduced his method of anaesthetics and helped save many lives. He invented many surgical tools still in use today along with introducing the world to the plaster cast for setting broken bones.

At Vyshnya, in 1866, he opened a free hospital and built his house and a dispensary.    The estate was opened as a museum in 1947. At the museum, being a former army medic myself, I was particularly interested to know that Dr. Pirogov was the first to put into action the sorting of the wounded and the sick on the battlefield. In the United States Army we call this method of sorting a “triage”.

Less than two kilometers away from Vyshnya is a small chapel which his wife built in Dr. Pirogov’s honor. Embalmed by a method he invented, Dr. Pirogov’s body is on display in the crypt surrounded by metal wreaths which were laid on his coffin on the day of his funeral. (sorry, no photos allowed)

A medical university in Vinnytsya, as well as universities in Odessa and Moscow, along with many educational and scientific institutions are named for Dr. Pirogov. Ahh, I feel better after my visit to the doctor!

ПРИВЕТ!

WARNING: THIS BLOG ENTRY HAS GRAPHIC ARCHITECTURAL IMAGES! …taken as part of my “research” at Pirogova, near Kyiv, the Museum of Folk Architecture and Customs of Ukraine. Do not view this material if architecture bores you!
The young ladies shown are (l to r) Katia, a folklorist and singer who is working as a consultant with the Podolian Agency for Regional Development (PARD) on the project to develop an “open-air” museum in the village of Severynivka, focusing on Podillian regional architecture, Olena, my work counterpart, interpreter and language tutor at PARD and Nastia, an architecture student from Kyiv National University, who is my intern for the summer. Occasionally these ladies are used in the photographs to provide a sense of scale to the architecture (really!). No Ukrainians were harmed in the making of these pictures.

If you wish to learn more about the open-air architecture museum at Pirogovo near Kyiv, go to pirogovo.com.ua to look at the pictures (if you are not a Ukrainian speaker) or ua traveling.com/pirogovo. Thanks for interest in the beauty of Ukraine’s historic wooden architecture.

Reporting from the village of Pirogova, Ukraine,

До свидания!

Майк  

I am enjoying the opportunity to document my activities and adventures in the Peace Corps in Ukraine. If you were to guess that the granite statue picture I took in Gorky Park in Vinnytsya is Maxim Gorky, you would be correct. Of course, you would need to know that it’s in Gorky Park. But, then, there are many statues in Gorky Park (or, more correctly “The Central Park of Culture and Rest named after Gorky”) including eight in the “Alley of Countrymen”. But, then, a Lincoln statue is in Grant Park in Chicago and a Grant statue is in Lincoln Park!
The most “famous” Gorky Park is in Moscow and, of course, also memorializes Maxim Gorky, the writer, dramatist and political activist. Gorky’s real name was Alexei Maximovich Peshkow but he choose to go by Gorky which is literally the Russian word for “bitter” (горький). Actually a statement on his attitude.
The park was established in Vinnytsya in 1936, interestingly the same year as his death. It was developed on property of a summer garden of Magnate Kurlovych. In Moscow Gorky Park was opened in 1928, apparently before his death. He had returned to Moscow after being exiled to Fascist Italy and was returned as a hero to Russia by Stalin. The park in Moscow is the one made famous through the book and then the movie of the same name.
Vinnytsya’s Gorky Park has an arch  and needle type obelisk built in 1961 at one of its entrances which commemorates the first manned space flight. I prefer the classical arch entrance which is more in keeping with this historical park.
Vinnytsya tries hard with maintenance. It is generally a clean city with a proud presentation of historic buildings, parks and plazas. A new Independent Square is being constructed in front of the city hall and should be open in the fall. I have not seen a lawn mower here in Ukraine at all. Grass is often cut with a sickle if at all.   (the sickle is probably a better option than my friend Jill’s little electric battery lawn mower!) My point is, Gorky Park does not have well trimmed lawns as we in America know them but it is clean and has lots to offer, including festivals of folk and modern music, which I enjoy very much.
One source I recall reading mentioned mass graves found in 1943 in Vinnytsya, including at Gorky Park,  during the German occupation during World War II (Ukrainians call it The Great Patriotic War). The Germans said it was the work of Stalin and now, it is talked about as the work of the Nazis. Just another part of Ukraine’s tragic history which little is known by the rest of the world. Much confusion here about who to blame about the tragic history. It is obvious that the Ukrainian nation is affected by this confusion. Maybe that is why they love the Peace Corps with its fresh ideas and idealism, especially from the bright young Peace Corps volunteers and the experience from us older volunteers. And, to bring a new dimension to a project to develop an open air architecture museum and theater pavilion in the village of Severynivka  old mill building waiting to be restored

is a golden opportunity for me to make a difference in the advocacy of Ukrainian cultural importance to the future of this only twenty year old nation which is steeped in history.
Next week I will be visiting the Porogova Village of Folk Architecture and Customs of Ukraine (near Kyiv) to study restored wooden buildings (over 300 there!) to help my understanding for the development of the museum in the village of Severynivka. Hope the day is good for the photojournalist in me!
Later, reporting from Vinnytsya, Ukraine
Майк
ps: I get a beautiful view of Gorky Park a couple times each day from my tram ride   to the office of the Podolian Agency for Regional Development. It stretches for quite a distance along the route and is a great distraction on the ride, even if the accordian player begging for a few “griven” is on that particular tram – a serious European experience! Of course, the other distraction here in Ukraine is the wonderful efforts by the young women to be fashion statements…    Oh, by the way, (got distracted!) the electric tramway system started operations here in 1913. The present trams were produced in the Czech Republic. In 2007 the city of Zurich, Switzerland, donated the currently used trams to Vinnytsya.  Historic 1913 tram

Майк and Grygoriy Artynov, two architects in Vinnytsia

A project I am starting to work on is near the village of Severynivka which is located 15 km from the regional center city of Zhmerynka, a region which traces its history to the Middle Ages, reaching back to an age of the Trypillian civilization. In 1435 the region was annexed by Poland and, for 300 years, say historians, the area suffered “times of merciless oppression and serfdom.”
Among the tragic events in recent history was the Communist induced Great Famine (1932-33) and the Stalin repressions. On July 17, 1941, Nazi troops began occupation of the area and killed many of its inhabitants. The Nazis established prisoner camps where more than twelve thousand people were killed. (see attached photo of a Soviet fighter jet monument just outside my door celebrating the end of Nazi occupation and the liberation of the city of Vinnytsia)
My assignment in the Peace Corps is to assist the Podolian Agency for Regional Development. This past week the organization was awarded a contract to develop an open-air architecture museum (living history center) near Severynivka. Work begins this week. The timing and the project are perfect for me starting with the beginning phase. I’m sure I will be reporting more as the project unfolds in the next few weeks. In the meantime, I have been busy developing playground designs and creating plans for wood climbing sculptures for kids to be placed in village parks in the Podolian region. It has been fun, along with settling into my apartment (more of a challenge). I’m in a typical Soviet era precast concrete structure, probably built in the early 1960′s Cold War times. I shouldn’t complain about the plumbing problems since this is, after all, the Peace Corps and I took an oath on June 16th “to serve under conditions of hardship, if necessary”. With the apartment problems resolved I can now relax in my new home on Cosmonaut Boulevard, just steps away from the tram stop for my trips to the office in beautiful downtown Vinnytsia and to the parks, theaters, museums and other amenities Vinnytsia has to offer.
The toughest question I am aked here, where few Americans tread, is why I would leave America to come to Ukraine. I honestly don’t have a clear answer yet but I believe I will have it in two years when I return to my home in St. Charles, Illinois. Maybe I will have been able to give just one person hope despite a tragic history and make a difference in someone’s life here to show them that America cares and to show them that hard work and reaching goals can, in fact, benefit them and their families…and the struggle for this fledgling twenty year young nation with a long history will have a worthwhile future. Today, on July 4, a fellow Agency staffer gave me best wishes for me and my country. I told him I think we’re both doing well.

Mike, reporting from Vinnytsia, Ukraine

The Podolian Agency for Regional Development office is in this government building in downtown Vinnytsia

For the next two years I will be in Vinnytsia, Ukraine, working with the Podolian Agency for Regional Development (PARD), www.pard.org.ua  The main goal of the organization is to assist in the social and economic development of the Podillya region in the Vinnytska Oblast (state). A good web site to learn more about Vinnytsia is www.vinnytsatourism.com.ua.
Vinnytsia is in the heart of Ukraine, rich in history and culture. Founded in 1345, the city now has a population of over 350,000. The river Південний Буг (Southern God) runs through the city. It is the home base for the Ukrainian Air Force and for several respected universities. The Vinnytsia Drama Theatre is in the City Center next to the building which houses PARD. Within a short distance of the office are parks, monuments and museums. Lots to explore in the next two years. Stay tuned!

Check out the Chernihiv, Ukraine, tourism web site at www.chernihiv.com.ua Its easy to use. You just need to register with your email and a password. Automatically you will be sent by email a link to activate and then you are in the full web site. There are some beautiful pictures, some from a photo contest and some historic, including from the Great Patriotic War (World War II). On Monday afternoon I am meeting with officials from the city’s tourism staff to discuss a cultural exchange with my hometown of St. Charles, Illinois. This is my last week here in Chernihiv. After this week I am off to Kyiv for four days of meetings and “swearing in” and then on to a yet undisclosed location in Ukraine to spend the next two years.

До свидания,

Майк

Living in Chernihiv, Ukraine, the past few months has been an experience which I cannot describe fully in words. On June 13 through the 16th I will be in the capital city of Kyiv for the official “swearing in” retreat. There I will find out where my assignment will be for the next two years – probably a larger city in eastern Ukraine. The swearing in preparation will take place at the Post Graduate Institute in Kyiv and the ceremony will take place at the “Teacher’s House”. Since it is the 50th Anniversary of the Peace Corps, the ceremony is to be a really big deal! U.S. Ambassador to Ukraine, John Tefft (from Madison, Wisconsin) is to be there and Leonid Kravchuk, the Ukrainian president who invited the Peace Corps to Ukraine in 1992, just after the collapse of the Soviet Union, has been invited.
Saying good bye to the beautiful city of Chernihiv is difficult. I have come to enjoy its great architecture (especially the unbelieveable Ukrainian Orthodox churches), its friendly welcome and its unique personality. Referred to as Ukraine’s “open air museum”, the gold cupolas and towers of the cathedrals and monasteries give a sense of wonder for this historic destination.
The name Chernihiv (Чернігів) came from Cherniga, the prince of the Severian forest tribe which lived here in the early centuries. Chernihiv was able to preserve its best architecture when other cities were decimated by war. It is truly a royal city which honestly conveys Ukraine’s proud imperial past and provides a stately reminder of the way the country once looked. It was my privilege to live here the past few months.
It was also my privilege to assist Chernihiv’s Mercy and Kindness Child Development Center by providing a plan for the restoration of their historic building. It is my hope that the Center can continue to do their fine work with the disabled and disadvantaged in a facility improved in functionality and enhanced beauty.
До свидания с Чернігів,
Майк

As my time in Chernihiv winds down, only three more weeks until the swearing in ceremony in Kyiv with the US Ambassador and a former president of Ukraine who first invited the US Peace Corps to serve in his country, I feel compelled to talk about this beautiful historic city. I can’t believe how fortunate I am to experience Chernihiv as a temporary resident and to have had a part in helping a community organization with their needs for supporting children with disabilities and disadvantages for the past few months.

Chernihiv is described as a city “forgotten by time”. It is situated on the banks of the Desna River, 141 kilometers north of Kyiv. It has a population of just over 300,000. Chernihiv is actually older than the Ukrainian capital of Kyiv. It dates to the year 907 AD.

Chernihiv is famous for its churches, particularly those erected during the 11th and 12th centuries. The most notable of these is the Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Savior, where I attend services every Sunday. It was built in 1017.

A visit to Chernihiv would not be complete without a visit to Red Square and a visit to the Drama Theater there.  I have enjoyed several performances at the Drama Theater during my time here, including a wonderful celebration of the 20th Anniversary of independance from the Soviet Union. The Red Square itself is worth the trip and is a few steps away from one of Chernihiv’s most spectacular parks with a great view of the Ally of Heros and its water fountains that lead to the golden domed St. Catherine’s Church. The wonderful combination of unique architectural monuments from the past, combined with newer, modern buildings, lend a special charm to the city that makes it a national treasure for Ukraine.

This city of about 15,000 people was a delight to discover. The trip by marshrutka was 3 1/2 hours each way and was an adventure in itself, dodging potholes, cows and traveling through the scenic countryside as if in a previous time. The city of Novhorad Siversky is a place from the 12th century Kyivan Rus. It is a beautiful setting perched high above the Desna River. In the distance to the north and east is Russia which can be seen from the towers of the Spaso-Preobrazhensky Monastery. Right outside the monastery is themodern Hotel Slovyansky which was built specifically for the 2004 summit between three presidents, Leonid Kuchma of Ukraine, Alexander Lukashenko of Belarus and Vladimir Putin of Russia. (Kuchma was born a short distance from here.) Otherwise, it is an idyllic town of 19th century country homes.

Later, from Ukraine,

Mike